Our entry into Laos was by crossing the Mekong river between Chang Khong (Thailand) and Huay Xai (Laos). Visa costs were different by nation with Canada paying the most and the Middle East the least. A couple of Israelis we met joked it was about the only advantage (only they would know). We can only guess what the Canadians have done to annoy Laos.
We travelled by slow boat to Luang Prabang stopping overnight in Pak Beng. On arrival (after sunset) we were descended upon by kids who grabbed our bags from the boat and tried to run them up the hill for a fast Kip (Buck). Watching all the Westerners using the light of their cameras\phones in the dark, trying to spot their packs then getting stressed and piling back on the boat tipping it precariously to one side, was a highlight of the day.
Apparently rather predictably we headed to the Indian restaurant only to find it full and a rather unhappy neighbor Mr Sivali (manager of the Laos restaurant next door) who dejectedly remarked... "Why does no one want to eat Laos food? Many people in Laos very unhappy about this!". Unable to provide an adequate answer we headed inside for one of many good Laos meals and also an opportunity to flex my IT skills by fixing his camera phone (he'd exhausted the memory on dirty videos making the average young Laos male not that different).
Sadly the angry/stressed Westerner theme continued. A five minute wait for a group of sleepy Australians before departing on a boat to Luang Prabang resulted in abuse from Americans and Canadians ("Who the f**k do you think you are?"). Indeed a few days later we too were the subject of some European abuse, arriving back at a tour bus on time, but after the rest. Holiday (definition) = Leisure time away from work devoted to rest or pleasure. To me this does not encompass verbal abuse of complete strangers because you've been delayed a few minutes. It makes us westerners look very stupid.
The ride down to Luang Prabang (LP) ranks highly in the list so far. Rolling hills, dense greenery and the odd goat or elephant working in the field all resulting in a very easy and therefore short game of eye spy. We would spend an entire week in LP the town whose tag-line is "stay another day". Well it worked on me, though the last day was due to dodgy food rather than choice. Town life was good value being $6 a night for decent accommodation and only $8 for an Indian meal for two with beer that would cost $60 on Brick Lane.
Wanting to see more of Laos and working towards Vietnam we headed North. After a short ride in a minibus coated in Laotian vomit (they get very motion sick) and a dead dog (the driver was in a rush) we arrived in Nong Khiaw. This was the beginning of a fun but very cold few days. At 1K feet and clouded over, the temperature took a huge turn for the worse. Two days prior I had been cycling in 32 degree heat, now we were at less than 10 with only summer clothes. Coal heaters under restaurant tables and the odd fire were our only heat source, bamboo huts offering little insulation.
Despite this we saw fit to go net fishing (wading around in the river stringing nets along the bank and whacking the water with sticks) to catch tiny fish and crabs which Fay then helped cook back at the guest house. Doher (our fishing guide) was more than happy to take us, but was the subject of much amusement by the other villagers as we headed out and returned shivering. The fire back at the guest house was a treat and my clothes steamed dry whilst the dog MeMe's whiskers shriveled in the heat.
Deciding to push on to Vietnam (better weather) we took the Sawngthaeu (picture) east thinking it could only get better. We now know better. Two days of trundling through mountain roads at 3.5K feet in a freezing mist on the back of an open truck wearing only summer clothes (albeit ALL of them) was a real test for the westerners aboard, though apparently only a mild annoyance for the locals, who endured the same in just one layer, no hats no socks and sandals!
Arriving in Sam Neua took us to 4K feet and after a brief glimpse of sun we spent another freezing night in a country which doesn't seem to acknowledge the cold. What a town though, with an amazing market (see album 3). Finally we made our break for Vietnam, 12 hours in a proper bus arriving in Thanh Hoa, a few hundred km south of Hanoi. Amazingly as we passed through immigration and got stamped into Vietnam, the sun came out and the thermals and multiple layers came off. The really cold snap was over, though while we remain in the north, the temperatures remain only a shade above London.
Oh and one important travel tip for you... Before adding spare blankets to the bed, check them for ants nests (of course). If you don't you might end up covered and with a bed full of ants and eggs and would have to spend over an hour salvaging sheets before going to sleep. Now wouldn't that be fun!
- Peter (Hanoi, Vietnam - Feb 08)
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